January 2004

Loosen the CV joints and the wheel lug nuts. This is the placement of the jack stands. I used this custom made jack tool to lift the car with the hydraulic floor jack (3 1/2 ton). After jacking up the car, I placed a small jack stand under the driver's side jack point, then let the floor jack down. I then moved the floor jack to the center of the motor mount and jacked up the car, until I could place the 3 ton jack stands under both sides of the car, using the jack mounts.

The engine removal process documented here was follows the Pelican Parts tech article, 'Engine removal made easy.' There were several steps that I had already performed before this day, those steps will be skipped. Also, this car has dual weber carbs, therefore, any steps related to the FI were ignored. I also combined steps recommended by Brad Roberts from his 914club web site.

Remove the plastic cover of the relay board.

Disconnect the alternator harness and the starter harness.

This is the 12-pt, 8mm, star tool used to remove the CV joints. This part was purchased at NAPA for $8.95.

Remove the rear wheels. Do not remove the CV joint bolts, only have them loose enough to slide around in their holes. Separate the CV joint by carefully prying them apart with a small screw driver and a rubber mallet.

Place the screw driver on the separation nearest to the transmission and tap around the outside of the CV joint until they begin to separate. The CV joints are positioned with a pretty tight toleranced dowel pin.

Once you have them disconnected, make sure you place a bag over the ends of the axles and the flanges on the transmission. This is to protect both the joint from dirt and you from grease.

Disconnect the speedometer cable.

Speedometer cable removed.

Disconnect the clutch cable.

The final item to disconnect is the shift linkage. Remove the cone screw from the rear shift coupling. Place an open-ended wrench between the bracket and the end of the shift linkage. Sit in the car and shift it "smartly" into 3rd gear. As the shift linkage is pulled forward, continue to add open-ended wrenches until the bar is disconnected.

Remove the cone screw from the front shift coupling and pull the shift linkage out.

Disconnect the transmission ground strap.

Place the floor jack under the motor and remove the motor mounts.

Remove the 2 small transmission mount nuts on each side.

Slowly lower the floor jack, making sure everything is disconnected. The drive shafts will need to be carefully lifted over several parts of the engine as the engine is pulled from the car.

Right view of the engine removed.

Left view of the engine removed.

Driver's side of engine compartment.

Passenger's side of engine compartment showing battery tray.

Close up of the passanger's mount of control arm. This will need to be replaced.

Passenger's side of engine compartment.

Driver's side of engine compartment

Close up of the driver's mount of control arm.

Engine compartment.

View of engine compartment showing bagged CV joints.

Inside view of passenger's side control arm.

Lower engine compartment view.

Inside view of driver's side control arm.

Outside view of passenger's side control arm.

Outside view of driver's side control arm.

Front view of removed engine.

I will remove the rear control arm, shock absorber, spring and axle all together.

This is the inside view of the control arm and the brake lines.

Pry off the rear stabilizer arm from the bottom of the shock absorber. The arm just pops off, there aren't any nuts that hold this piece.

Disconnect the flexible and hard brake line.

This shows the brake lines disconnected.

Remove the brake caliper.

Remove the front inside nut.

Disconnect the 3 bolts for the control arm bearing.

This shows the bolts removed from the control arm bearing. The shim is between the shim bracket and the body.

Place the floor jack underneath the control arm.

Remove the rubber cap, in the rear trunk. This will expose the nut on the top of the shock absorber.

Remove the nut and washer from the top of the shock absorber.

Slowly lower the floor jack. The top of the shock absorber might hang up and will need to be moved back and forth.

This shows the alignment shims for adjusting the rear alignment.

This is the alignment shim, bracket and bolts.

Need description

This is the right rear suspension ear. It appears that there has been some repair done. I'll need to remove and replace with a new piece. I'll order the replacement piece from Restoration-Design, along with the rear engine deck piece.

Tools needed to remove the tie-rod ends, a BFH (3# sledge) and a tie-rod removal tool.

We will begin by removing the tie-rods. Remove the wheels, then jack up the a-arm.

Place a jack stand underneath the brake disc and remove the floor jack.

Remove the cotter pin and the castellated nut (15mm). Use the 3# hammer to smack the side of the buldge of the a-arm where the tie-rod shaft is.

If the use of the 3# hammer doesn't work, then install the tie-rod removal tool. Tighten the screw, which will force the tie-rod threaded-shaft out.

I had to add a c-clamp to keep the arms of the removal tool from spreading.

Next, we will remove the brakes. Begin by removing the hydraulic brake line (11mm and 18mm).

Remove the two caliper retaining bolts and locking plate.

Carefully pry off the hub grease cap.

Loosen the clamping nut screw and unscrew the nut carefully. This will bring with it the nose washer, outer bearing roller assembly and its outer track. Remove the disc.

This is the brake disc,outer bearing,nose washer,clamping nut screw,hub grease cap with rubber washer.

Remove the three nuts that hold the disc dust shield, then remove the shield.

Front brake removed.

Support the control arm with the floor jack.

Remove the nut and washer from the top of the shocks.

Remove the rear control arm support attaching bolt.

Remove the center control arm bolt.

Remove the the guard clip (hex screw) at the front of the control arm. Next, remove the 2 bolts from control arm bolts.

Remove the 2 steering arm bolts.

Place the floor jack underneath the bar that connects the 2 control arms.

Smack the buldge where the torsion bar adjusting screw is. This should cause the control arms to drop.

Front suspension removed, with the shock absorbers.

Next, we'll remove the metal brake lines and the brake master cyclinder. Remove the 2 bolts from the M/C and slide the M/C off, leaving the brake lines in place that route the the brake resevoir, in the front trunk. This will allow us to remove the steering rack.

Now we will remove the lower nut and bolt to the universal joint of the steering column, accessible in the passenger compartment. Before removing this bolt, you should place either a blanket or jack stands underneath the steering rack.

If the steering rack has not dropped, when the u-joint bolt was removed, move back under the car and pull the steering rack carefully.

This is how I'm going to reinstall everything. I store and catalog all small parts in clear baggies.

Now we will remove the rear bumper. Begin by removing the license plate lights, 2 screws each side. Disconnect the 2 wires.

This is the electrical connection on the driver's side.

Remove the 4 bolts that connect the bumper to the body. 2 are located underneath the car and 2 are located in the trunk. Rear bumper is removed.

Rear bumper removed.

This is rack and pinion steering removed.