June 2005

I replaced the previous owners electric pump from the engine compartment to the front trunk and replaced with a new rotary pump. I started by cutting the 2 wires from the harness that previously connected to the fuel pump. The brown, ground, was spliced with black and the black w/red stripe was replaced with red wire.

Next I drilled a hole in the firewall next to the gear shifter. I used a rubber grommet to keep the wire from rubbing on the metal. Then I passed the wires into the passenger compartment in the center tunnel.

This show the wires above the engine shelf and how I passed them down through the hole in the shelf.

After feeding the wires into the passenger compartment, I followed the main wiring harness, using the same metal tie-downs.

I feed the wires up through the bottom of the dash in the same place that the main harness follows.

Once in the front trunk area, I again followed the factory wiring harness.

This shows the placement of the fuel pump. I tack-welded a bolt on the wall that separates the front trunk and the fuel tank area. Then used the supplied clamp to hold the pump. This also shows the plumbing of the fuel lines.

Next, I plumbed the outlet lines to the fuel tank. Because this is a carbed car, the return fuel line is not needed, therefore, I put a simple cock-valve that will allow me to carefully drain the fuel tank.

I installed a fuel filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. It's important to provide enough fuel line to be able to pull the filter out, to be able to replace, without having to remove the fuel tank.

Finally, I installed the fuel tank. There are 2 large rubber inserts, one for each side, along with a small plastic piece that goes under the metal straps across the top of the fuel tank. These straps are held in place by a large screw.

Here's a side shot that shows the small vent hose placement and the over-flow tube.

This shows the majority of the painted engine tin pieces, I found a couple of more pieces after this pic.

Another view of the painted engine tin.

I fabricated 2 l-shaped pieces to mount the breather box, using the top tranny bolt. I had to replace the bolt with a longer one.

Here's another view.

This shows the hoses all hooked up.

Here's another view. I used the OEM hoses and have since added a hose clamp to the center piece.

These are just basic reference shots before the engine/tranny installation.

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This shot actually shows the main wire from the starter to the battery hooked up WRONG. The wire should have been installed on the other side of the tranny, through the engine tin, the over the top of the tranny, finally hooking up to the battery. I have since changed it after the installation.

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This shows the other wires, the 12-pin connector that attaches to the relay board, installed WRONG. This group of wires should pass through the engine tin on the left side and the main cable from the starter to the battery should have passed through the tin on the right side. Again, this was corrected when the engine was reinstalled.view.