March 2008

Last weekend the gear shifter wouldn't go into either first or reverse. Since I've replaced every bushing within the shifting arena, except the firewall bushing, I figured that was the problem. I limped the car back to the shop. I got underneath and grabbed the shifter rod. It moved around way too much, so I called the Porshce dealership and ordered the firewall shift bushing. I got the bushing during the week and planned to replace it this weekend. The first thing I did was put the car as high in the air as possible, so that I could move around underneath. Also, when I parked the car, I put the car in 2nd gear.

I removed the band on the rear shifter housing cover.

After removing the shifter housing cover, I removed the cone screw.

Then I got my father-in-law in the car. I placed 3-4 open-end wrenches between the coupling and the plastic sleeve. I then had my father-in-law quickly pull the gear into 3rd gear. This pulled the shifter rod out of the coupling. This shows the rod out of the coupling.

Next, I went to the housing at the firewall and disconnected it. Next, remove the cone screw.

Again, I had my father-in-law pull the gear shfiter into 3rd, while I held the rod. This pulled the rod apart and into the center tunnel.

This is what the firewall looks like with the rod in the center tunnel.

This is what was left of the firewall shift bushing.

This is what a brand new firewall shift bushing looks like.

At this point, I took the new bushing and put it in a coffee cup of water and micro-waved it for 3 minutes. When it was hot and pliable, I grabbed it with a screwdriver and, having gloves on, pressed into the firewall. Just put the small side in, then pressed the rest of it in.

At this point, I disconnected the 3 bolts that hold the shifter to the tunnel and carefully pressed the shifter bar through the new bushing. I also removed the access panel at the rear of the tunnel. You should be able to see the bar and guide it through the bushing. The rest is the reverse of the removal, i.e., attach a new cone screw at the front section, making certain that the screw goes in the depression in the inner tube, insert the rear rod in the housing and connect a new cone screw, put some gease on the rod at the firewall and attached the front and rear rubber/plastic housings.

Finally, you'll need to adjust the shifter. Loosen the bolt that secures the gear shifter to the shifter bar and pull the bar out. Since I put the car in 2nd gear, I estimated where the gear shifter should be and connected the gear shifter back on the bar, don't forget to install the 3 bolts on the gear shifter to the tunnel. Next, I tested the shifter, making certain it would go into each gear. Finally, I drove the car and made final adjustments to the gear shifter. Remember, there are 2 dimensions you'll need to check. The fore and aft, which will allow ease of movement from 2->3 and 4->5. To make this adjustment, you'll need to just loosen the bolt on the gear shifter/rod, make the adjustment, then drive the car and test again. The other adjustment is for the shift from 1->2 and 3->4. To make this adjustment, you'll have to unbolt the gear shifter from the tunnel and the bolt holding the rod to the gear shifter, turn the gear shifter 90, hold the rear bolt with needle-nose pliers and carefully pull the gear shifter away from the rod. Again, carefully twist the shifter rod, with the pliers and put it all back together and drive it again. Continue to adjust it until you feel comfortable with the new shifting pattern.