May 2005

This shows the before shot where the A/C hoses routed from the inner fenderwell into the dash. This shot was taken Feb 15, 2004.

This is the after shot.

This shows the before shot where the A/C hoses were attached inside the passenger's inner fenderwell. This shot was taken Feb 15, 2004

This is the after shot.

This is the passenger's side headlight installed.

This is the driver's side headlight installed.

This shows the front view of the headlight.

This is the carpeted board that lays on top of the spare tire.

Installed the rear window. I started by placing the black butyl tape (1/4") around the inside of the window opening. Then I carefully placed the window in position. Finally, I pressed very hard on the glass to until the tape turned balack through the glass.

Here's another shot of the window in place.

Finally I taped the bottom edge of the window with on strip of black electrical tape.

This shows the installation of the rear window seal just above the engine lid. This seal is just pressed onto a lip on the firewall.

This shows the pedal cluster installed. I still have to hook up the new cables.

This shows the master cyclinder installed.

This shows the brake fluid reservoir and hoses installed.

I installed the seat belts today. After removing them, the belt had retracted completely, therfore, I had to undwind the belt before I could mount it. The first step is to remove the 'fat' plastic cover. The 'skinny' side holds the flat spring, DO NOT REMOVE THIS COVER. Otherwise, you'll be SOL...

This is what the belt retractor looks like after removal of the cover. Notice the position of the 'bell' and pivot joint. As you work through the process of unwinding the belt, these two pieces will separate, don't worry, just remember to put them back into position before you reinstall the plastic cover.

This show the engagement of the inner and outer 'gears'. These pieces engage together.

This shows the the outer gear disengaged from the outer gear. This is the postion you need them to be in to be able to SLOWLY unwind the belt. To get them into this postion you'll need to hold down the pivot joint, carefully unwind the outer gear. Holding the outer gear in position, carefully unwind the belt. There will be several times that the outer gear will reengage with the inner gear, which will stop the belt from unwinding, don't worry, just reposition the inner gear, hold it firmly, then continue to unwind the belt. After the belt is a sufficient length from the bottom of the rear window to the floor you can stop. I have clamped a vice-grip to the belt just below the retractor to hold the belt. After the belt is the correct length, reattach the plastic cover.

This shows how the hinge pieces fit together. This is the piece that the belt loops through at the very top.

This shows where the hinge piece attaches through the side interior trim.

This is a close up of the location where the retractable seat belt attaches to the rear firewall.

This is a wider view.

This is a close up of the various washers as they should be positioned for the hinge section at the top of the loop.

This shows the bolt and washers for the section that attaches to the floor.

This shows the final assembly with the 'twist' in the belt.

I installed the rubber engine shelf sections today.

Here's a view from the engine opening.

I also installed the rear sway bar.

I started the installation of the rear suspension by passing the top shock absorber bolt into the rear trunk and attaching the washer and bolt.

This shows how the shock/spring goes into the rear trunk.

This shows the shock/spring in place.

Next I attached the end cap onto the rear control arm. I recommend attaching now instead of later as it can be difficult once the control arm is connected to the rear suspenion ear.

This shows the end cap, adjustment shim, bolts and lower plate. The lower plate is on the left with the bolt and the schoor washer. The shim will be placed between the body and the end cap. The end cap is actually upside-down in this view.

I attached the control arm first to the inside, by the suspension ear, with a washer and bolt, then attached the rear section to the lower shock absorber.

This shows the bolt and washer where the bolt passes through the shock absorber and the rear of the control arm. Don't forget to install the large washer on this bolt before passing through the shock.

This shows the back side of the shock. I forgot the large washer and had to remove the bolt and reinstall.

This shows the bolt as it is attached to the suspension ear.

This is the final shot. These pieces are only hand-tight and will need to be torqued down before testing.

This is a view at the front of the control arm.

The last piece to install is the drop link that connects the rear sway bar to the shock absorber. The plastic bushings are very stiff and can be difficult to install. The steps I used to install them was to first place the hollow end next to the link and place both in a vice. Slowly tighten the vice and carefully 'persuade' the bushing into the ring using a flat-bladed screwdriver. At this point DO NOT put any grease on the bushing or the link. Once the bushing's ring has been inserted into the ring, remove from the vice. Apply a small amount of grease on the edge of the bushing, then place the ring, with the solid section of the bushing up, over the open jaws of the vice then beat into place.

This is the installation shot. I added some grease into both sections of each bushing. Then, start by putting the bushing on the shock absorber end, cover with a rag and hit sharply with a rubber hammer. Next, place the sway bar end into the other bushing and slowly tighten with a c-clamp. Notice the position of the c-clamp. The link will have a tendency to move around, so hold it in position. Tighten c-clamp until sway bar end is firmly in positon.

This shows the final connection of the drop-link connected to the sway bar and the rear shock.

This is the passenger side.