October 2005

This shows the rear brake dust cover and attaching mounting bracket. Note, this is the back side.

The dust cover is mounted to the rear hub my one bolt, then the other two bolts pass through the dust cover and connect to the mounting bracket. Before tightening down the bolts, I recommend inserting the rear caliper bolts through the mounting bracket and into the caliper mounting ear. This will hold the dust cover in the correct position.

This shows the 'new' rebuilt rear caliper. The spring, with the lever, is for mounting the parking brake cable. The shows the inside position of the caliper. When the caliper is mounted, the spring will point down and the lever will point towards the front of the car. Remember, these calipers are specific to each side, i.e., they aren't interchangable.

This shows the outside position of the caliper. The large nut is used to adjust the venting clearance for the outside brake pad.

This shows the cover bolt removed, exposing the inside nut for adjusting the venting clearance for the inside brake pad. Also, you'll need to have this bolt removed before mounting the caliper.

This shows the caliper flipped over. This is the area that will be against the brake disc. This also shows the pistons and seals.

I attached the bleeding screws and the hard brake line. The brake line is not completely tightened down. It's much easier to install the line before installing the caliper.

This shows the hole in the trailing arm for adjusting the inside venting clearance.

Next, I mounted the rear disc to the hub. This disc is attached by two regular flat screws.

Finally, the caliper is mounted to the hub. I recommend that you insert one of the caliper mounting bolts in the bottom hole to align the dust cover mounting bracket. Then, carefully insert the top caliper bolt through the caliper, then through the dust cover mounting bracket, finally into the hub. Once you have hand tightened the top bolt, remove the bottom bolt, then pass it through the caliper, dust cover and into the hub. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts, attach the hard brake line to the flexible brake line and tighten both ends. Install the inside cover bolt, through the trailing arm.

This shows the outside view of the front caliper.

This is the inside view of the caliper. Also shown is the locking plate and the two bolts that hold the caliper to the front.

The front caliper is much easier to attach. Just pass the two bolts through the locking plate, then through the caliper, finally into the control arm. I attached the hard brake line to the caliper before installing.

This shows how the hard brake line attaches to the flexible line. Be certain to tighten both ends.

Here's a wide shot of the front suspension.

Here's a wide shot of the rear suspension.

Here’s a shot of the front caliper before inserting the pads.

Begin by inserting the pads and the associated backing plate into the caliper, one on either side of the brake disk.

Next, insert the top pin through the inside caliper, pad, outer caliper. Then slip the retaining spring underneath the pin. Finally, insert the lower pin through the caliper, inner pad, over the retaining spring (pressing the spring down), outer pad, outer caliper.

That's it for installing the pads in the front calipers.

Now it’s time to install the rear pads. The addition of the parking brakes seems like an afterthought with the design of the 914 calipers. Because of the parking brake and the action on the rear pad, you need to manually set the clearances of both sides of the 914 rear pads. To do this you need to manually crank back the starting position. Begin by adjusting the outer piston, using a 4 mm hex key, turn the adjusting screw clockwise while pushing on the piston with a dull hammer or similar object. Although counter intuitive, this should make the piston return into the housing. Make sure that you turn it clockwise. Starting with the outer piston, loosen up the retaining nut using a 13mm wrench.

Now you need to do the same for the inside piston. Note: there is a small bolt that covers the inside caliper adjusting screw that is very easily stripped.

This shows the small bolt removed, displaying the adjusting screw. Also, when mounting the rear calipers, the spring should point down and the lever should point towards the front of the car.

To gain access to the adjusting screw, you need to remove this small cover bolt, using a 10mm socket, through this opening in the trailing arm. There should also be a copper washer/gasket in-between the cover bolt and the caliper. Remove the cover bolt by turning counter-clockwise. Make sure that you don't accidentally turn clockwise as you will probably strip the cover. After you remove the cover bolt, use the 4mm hex key to turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise while pressing on the piston. The piston should move back into the housing.

Now, you can insert the pads into the caliper. Make sure that the large holes in the pads line up with the larger pin. It may take a bit of tapping with a small rubber hammer to get the pads in. Replace the retaining pins without the separating spring in-between.

Now adjust the venting clearance for the rear pads. If you don't do this, you will have extremely spongy brakes. Using a feeler gauge placed in-between the rotor and the brake pad, tighten the adjusting screws until the clearance is 0.1mm (.004") on both sides.   For the outer piston, turn the adjusting screw counter-clockwise to tighten.

For the inner piston, turn the adjusting screw clockwise to tighten.

At this time I bleed the brake system. Because of the large amount of brake fluid, I didn’t take any pics of this process. I began by filling the brake reservoir. Next, I attached a power bleeder to the bottom nipple on the left front caliper. Then I started pumping the bleeder until I got fluid coming out. I then put the bleeder on the top nipple and bleed it. I continued these steps at each caliper working from l-front, r-front, l-rear, r-rear. Next, I attached a 10’ clear plastic line to the lower nipple on the r-rear caliper and placed the other end in the brake reservoir, then got in the car and used the brake pedal to again bleed the brakes. Then I bleed the lower nipple. I continued these steps going from the r-rear, l-rear, r-front, l-front. After the bleeding is finished, check the rear caliper venting clearance again. After all the adjustments are made, remove the retaining pins and replace the separating spring. Replace the retaining pins, and secure them with the small clips. Be sure to tighten down the nut on the outer adjustment screw. Reattach the covers over the inner adjustment screws.