September 2005

I installed the new carpet kit and cut and installed new vinyl pieces. The glue was applied to both the carpet and metal, but only sparingly. This shows the pieces of carpet and vinyl that needed to be tacked down with carpet glue. This the driver's side.

Here's a view of the passenger's side. I also attached the weather stripping around the door.

This shows the carpet that was glued to the front firewall.

At this point I began to install the parking brake lever. This is the switch that indicates whether the parking brake is on or not. This wire needed to be fed through the bottom round hole then out the top square hole. It was then attached to the switch, which was then screwed to the bracket.

Next, I attached the parking brake handle. I added a spot of grease on the pivot bolt and attached the mounting bolt to the frame member. Don't forget to pass the cable underneath the protective plate before attaching the folcrum.

I next attached the folcrum that holds the rear parking brake cables and the parking brake handle cable. This is a pin that goes through the top of the parking brake cable end, then through the folcrum, then the bottom of the parking brake cable end. Finally, a clip holds it all together. You'll need to attach the small spring to the folcrum, after the spring had been attached to the rear firewall. Finally, you'll notice how the rear parking brake cables are attached to the folcrum.

The final piece of the parking brake assembly is the cover plate over the folcrum. It held on by 2 screws.

Next, I attached the pedal board. Make certain that you attach the cover plate over the front tunnel hole. Carefully position the pedal board behind the gas pedal and 'feed' the brake, then the clutch pedals through the board. The board is finally attached by 2 plates and their assoicated bolts to the left and right sides. The right side is attached to the front cover plate.

I then attached the heater hoses that go through the upper firewall. The top attaches the the blower in the front trunk and the bottom attaches to the raised cylindrical piece. This shows the passenger's side.place.

This shows the driver's side. Don't forget to place the wiring harness BEHIND the hose.

Next, I installed the speakers. This shows the passenger's side.

Here's the driver's side speaker.

Next, I installed the seat rails. Don't forget to grease the center piece where the seats are adjusted for tilting. This is the driver's side.

Here's the passenger's side seat rail installed.

Next installed was the rubber boot over the gear shift lever and the center carpet. I left the center carpet unglued because I will need to remove to adjust the gear shift lever. BTW, the black and red wires will be attached to the CHT (cylinder head temp) gauge, yet to be mounted under the dash.

I then installed the inner and outer seat belts and the center tray. This is attached by 2 screws.

This shows the front, removable, carpet on the passenger's side.

Here's the front, removable, carpent on the driver's side. The clutch and brake pedals need to be 'fed' through the carpet.

This shows the original steering wheel attached. I attached the horn button wire to the center section, then bolted the steering wheel to the steering column. Then I carefully attached the center section to the steering wheel.

The final pieces installed are the seats. You'll notice that I haven't installed the back pad, it wasn't in good enough shape, so I'll have to get it reupholstered later.

Here's a shot from the driver's side. Along with the back pad, I plan to reupholster the door panels, again, later.

I attached the steering to the body.I had previously replaced the tie-rod ends with turbo tie-rods. After I attached the steering, I removed the tie-rod ends, then installed the rubber boots. I used spray silicone on the rubber ends then carefully slid the large end on first, by hand. It is attached by an elastic spring that is place over the end. I next carefully slid the small end over the first outside ring. Again, using the silicone spray and a medium screwdriver. There is no spring on the small end.

Here's a view of the cabin compartment. The steering shaft is pushed through a rubber seal, in the firewall, then inserted into the steering knuckle. There is a flat spot on the steering shaft that needs to line up with bolt hole. Insert the bolt and tighten the nut.

Next I installed the front suspension. This is held in place by several bolts, attached underneath the body. The shock towers need to be pushed over the top of the shock, then the threaded portion is insterted through the upper support mount. Then the rest of the threaded section is pushed through the body opening. Finally, the pressue plates are attached via 3 hex bolts and washers. This shows me using a floor jack to compress the torsion bar and shock absorber to be able to attach the tie-rod ends. On this car, I also attached the front sway bar as I was compression the torsion bar.

This shows the castellated nut on top of the tie-rod bolt. There's a cotter pin that should be installed, but I'm going to wait until I get the car aligned.

This shows how the steering is attached to the front suspension.

This shows the front suspension, front shock and turbo tie-rods.

After the front suspension is attached, I attached the final end pieces to front of the control arm. It is attached to the body via a hex bolt.

This is another shot of the turbo tie-rod and rubber boot.

This shows the upper support mounts and bolts and washers.

Finally, I attached the protective plate that covers the steering and brake master cylinder.

Today I put the front hub back together. I ordered and received the new front hubs, bearings and seals. I placed the bearing races in the freezer. This will slightly shrink the race, so that I can start the installation of the bearings into the hub.

This is what the back side of the hub looks like before the race/bearing is installed. I like to lightly rub some 600 grit wet-dry, where the bearings are going to be seated, just to clean up any burs or flash rust.You'll notice the shelf/lip. The race needs to be flush against this lip. Also note that the small opening goes in first.

I used the hammer to carefully tap the race down to the top of the hub. Then I used the driver to carefully tap the race until it was fully seated against the lip.

This shows how I used the driver to seat the race.

This shows the race fully seated.

Next, I flipped the hub over. Again, you'll notice the lip. There are 2 different sizes of race/bearings. The small bearing goes on the outside/front, the larger, on the inside/back.

Again, I removed the frozen race and set it in the hub. I used the hammer to tap the race down to the top of the hub.

I then used a 1 1/8" deep socket to carefully press the race into place. The 1 1/8" socket is just slightly larger than the inner diameter of the race, but slightly smaller that the diameter of the hub.

This shows the outside race fully seated.

Here's where the front hub attaches to the steering spindle.

I'm holding the large bearing. The next step is to completely pack the bearing with grease by hand. Take your time and make several passes, pressing the grease into all of the crevices, including the inner and outer edges.

Once the bearing is filled with grease, place this large one in the back of the hub, where the race was previously installed.

This shows the seal that will be pressed in the hub to hold the large bearin in place. BTW, this is the back side of the seal.

This shows the seal in place.

Throughout the installation, I have worn gloves. The gloves keep any moisture or oils from getting on the new metal, thus minimizing any flash rust. Next, place the hub onto the spindle. I used a small piece of wood to hold the hub in place until I was ready to install the nut.

This shows the slotted washer and nut that will be attached to the spindle. Now I packed the small bearing with grease. Again, get as much in the cracks as you can.

Attach the slotted washer and the nut. Please take note, the threads are opposite on each side. The driver's side has reverse threads, therefore, the nuts will only fit on one side. Next, tighten the nut with a cresent wrench while rotating the disc. When the disc starts to bind, loosen the nut by 1/2 turn. Spin the disc several times to make certain that it is not binding anywhere. Next tighten the clamping nut with an allen wrench.

Finally, smear some grease on the nut and install the grease cap by gently tapping with a rubber hammer. Don't add any grease to the cap.