May 2008

This is the empty door shell.

This is the rear section of the door.

This is the front section of the door.

This is the top section of the door.

First, install the door lock with three phillips screws. Make certain that the lock is in the closed positon.

This is the back side of the door lock showing how the operatin rod fits. I took these shots before the installation so that I could be document the installation process of the operating rod, door lock and the inner door release mechanism.

This shows how the operating rod fits in the inner door relase.

Here's a close up of the spring that fits over the operating rod and attaches to the door lock.

Here's another shot of the rod and the door lock.

Another shot of the inner door release and operating rod.

This shows the (2) rubber mounts installed on the rod.

To install the rod, mount the (2) rubber mounts. Attach the operating rod to the door lock and secure with the spring. Attach the operation rod to the inner door release, secure with the spring. Mount the inner door release with (2) bolts. Verify that the door latch and lock work correctly. Mount the rubber mounts to the door.

Here's a shot of the operating rod at the door lock section.

Here's a shot of the operating rod at the inner door release section.

Here's a close up of the rubber mount attached to the door.

This shows the door lock in the unlocked position.

This is a shot of the door stay.

Another shot of the door stay.

The door stay is attached through the front door opening and attached by (2) bolts. Make certain you lube the spring generously with white lithium grease. The grease is available in a spray can.

Next, install the profile. This holds the squegee. It's held on by (3) very small sheet metal screws. They're accessed through the holes in the door.

This is the bag of sheet metal screws that I used to hold the rear fuzzy strip channel. The screw goes on the top section.

This is the rear fuzzy strip channel.

This shows the bottom section of the rear fuzzy strip channel.

Here's a shot of the actual fuzzy strip that fits inside the channel.

Another view of the rear fuzzy strip.

Here's the profile of the rear fuzzy strip.

This shows the front fuzzy strip/side vent window channel.

Here's a shot of the front fuzzy strip.

Another shot of the front fuzzy strip.

Here's the profile of the front fuzzy strip.

This shows the power window.

Another shot of the power window.

This shows the power window with the lower roller in the guide rail. I took these shots to show how the pieces go together outside of the installation.

OK, now it's time to install everything. First install the rear fuzzy strip in it's channel. Next, slide the rear channel into the door, at the rear and attach the top with the single sheet metal screw and the bottom with (2) phillips head bolts and lock washers. Next, install the power window, secure with (4) bolts. Also verify that all (3) plastic rollers, attached to the power window, are in good condition. Next, install the guide rail. It attaches to the lower roller of the power window. Turn the guide vertically and slide the roller into the slotted section of the guide. Secure the guide with (2) bolts to the door. Do not tighten any of the bolts at this time. You'll need to adjust everything later.

Now, cover the profile with masking tape. Carefully install the window through the opening at the top of the door. It will fit, but you must be very careful. Don't attach the window yet. Slide the window towards the back and carefully install the front fuzzy channel. Install a bolt in the middle of this channel and a bolt at the bottom. Install a window crank and crank the power window towards the bottom. Install the front and rear sliders into the window.

Adjust the window to fit the rear slider and install a bolt in the front window slider.

This shows the bolt at the bottom of the front fuzzy channel/window guide.

This shows the bolt at the bottom of the rear fuzzy channel/window guide.

This is the window vent seal package.

This is the window vent seal.

Liberally lube the seal and the vent window with silicone. Attach the seal to the window and carefully position into the outer section of the front fuzzy channel/guide. The seal also fits into the top of the door.

This shows the vent window cap.

Another shot of the vent window cap.

Finally, attach the door. Be careful to align the pins, then install the door stay with the pin and circlip.

Time to drop the engine/tranny. I used Mark D'Bernardi's tech write up on the 914World site. Begin by removing the battery.

This shows the top section removed after removing (6) of the clips.

This shows the air cleaner completely removed.

Next, disconnect the throttle cable.

This shows a close up of the 100 mm locking nut and the 8mm barrel nut. Only release the barrel nut to be able to pull the cable out.

This shows the throttle cable disconnected. You'll need to push the cable through the engine tin.

Next, disconnect the fuel lines. I forgot to take a pic of these. They are disconnected from the plastic fuel lines near the MPS. Next, take the cover off of the relay board.

Disconnect the electrical connections.

Disconnect the ECU from the battery tray by loosening the (2) mounting nuts. Just pull the ECU towards the engine.

ECU disconnected.

Disconnect the oil temp sensor.

Mine had been tape/spliced, so I disconnected it there.

Next, remove the (3) hoses from the deceleration valve. Remove the bolt that holds the decel valve to the MPS.

This shows the MPS. Remove the hose and electrical connection.

Mark didn't recommend, but I also unbolted the MPS.

Jack up the car and remove the rear valence. The car should be at lease 21.5 inches off the ground. I had already removed the muffler.

Next, remove the tranny ground strap. Disconnect the electrical connections to the starter. Pull the (2) wires from the tranny reverse light switch. Carefully disconnect the CV joints. Place a plastic bag, with a rubber band, around the CV joint to keep it from getting the CV joint and you from getting dirty.

Remove the cover front the shift console and unscrew the cone screw from the shifter ball cup. Pull the ball cup towards the rear to remove it from the shifter shaft. Remove the cone screw from the front shifter. Disconnect the clutch cable. Remove the speedo cable. Place the jack underneath the motor and jack it up to just lift the car. I purchased a jack plate that fits the engine/tranny.

Disconnect the small tranny mount bolts.

Disconnect front motor mount bolts. Carefully lower the engine/tranny. You'll need to make certain everything is disconnected and that the CV/axles are pushed out of the way as the engine is lowered.

Success, the engine and tranny are now out of the car.

Another shot of the engine/tranny.

Another shot of the engine/tranny.

Before removing the suspension console, I took some shot of the dirty engine compartment. Here's the firewall.

Here's the driver's side.

Here's the relay board.

Relay board removed.

Here's the passenger's side. The battery tray and stand are new, but instead of welding these pieces in, the PO screwed and/or pop-riveted them in place.

This shows the battery tray removed. You can see the holes in the side from the previous battery tray. Also, you can see some of the patch work on the longitudinal. Again, the pop-riveted these pieces in place.

This is after the patch pieces were removed.

There was some minor rusting on the long.

This shows the rusted section cut out.

Here's the patch piece I fabricated.

This shows the long and the side wall pieces welded in and primered.

Now it's time to check out the RR suspension console.

What's that rust, that can't be good...

Anyway, I decided to remove the suspension console, this shows it being removed in sections. I also took out the engine shelf.

Suspension console removed.

Suspension console welded in. You'll noticed that I seam-sealed around the console and the long patch. I noticed that the previous console piece had rust inside and I wanted to prevent this on the next one.

Time to clean the engine and tranny. This is what it looked like before I got started.

This is a reference shot as I disconnected the engine tin, electrical connections and vacuum hoses.

Another reference shot.

Another reference shot.

Another reference shot.

Another reference shot.

Another reference shot.

Engine tin removed, cleaned and painted.

A shot of the painted engine tins.

Another painted shot.

Another painted shot.

This shows the tin installed.

A front shot.

A reference shot.

This shows the FI wires.

A reference shot.

This shows the tranny/clutch area cleaned and checked the input shaft seal.

Installed the guide tube.

This shows the back side of the release fork. The large hole at the bottom of the release fork fits over the round knob on the tranny. The smaller hole is where the retaining bracket bolts to.

This is the retaining bracket and bolt. BTW, I've replaced this retaining bracket because of the crack in it.

This shows the release fork and throw out bearing installed. BTW, I was missing the guide pieces that should have been attached to the throw out bearing, which I have since installed.