September 2008

Well, I installed the engine and started it up. Sorry no pics of the engine install. Anyway, the engine fired, but immediately went beyond 3000 rpm. I immediately shut it down and started tracking down the vacuum leaks. Here's a shot of the engine installed.

Another shot of the installed engine.

To track down the vacuum leaks, I checked every item that might be causing the problem. The first thing on the list was the vacuum hoses, which I have already replaced with new ones. The next item on the list is the phenolic spaces between the intake runners and the head. When I cleaned the engine, I had removed these and cleaned them, not knowing that I was destroying the paper gaskets on either side, so I had to make new ones. I had to completely remove the FI system, including the injectors (but not disconnecting the fuel hoses), the intake runners, plenum and throttle body. Here's what the phenolic spacers look like.

Here's the new gasket I made.

This shows where the phenolic spacer attaches at the head.

This shows where the phenolic spacer attaches at the intake runner.

Next on the list was to check that the plenum had no air leaks. I used a flashlight in a dark room and shined it inside, but there was no light leakage. I decided to remove the paint around the support tubes and resealed with JB Weld. Here's the plenum after repainting.

Another shot of the plenum.

Next on the list was to remove the cold start valve and replace the gaskets on either side.

This where it is attached to the side of the throttle body.

Next, was to replace the gasket between the throttle body and the plenum.

Finally, need to clean up the inside of the throttle body and verify that the pivot rod/butterfly isn't worn out.

I also verified that the MPS held vacuum at 25-30" and I added a hose clamp to the decel valve.

Here's a close up of the throttle linkage and everything hooked back up. One final thing I did was soak the AAR valve in PB Blaster over several days to loosen the stuck valve. This valve stays open until the engine warms up, causing the idle in increase. I started the car up, without the AAR valve connected, and it idled at 900 rpms. When I installed the AAR valve (engine wasn't quit warm) it idled at 1200 rpm. So, the engine is now ready to run....

These are the pictures that I sent to the classic car insurance company to prove the car has been restored and is ready for the road.

They required all four sides.

Here's the front shot.

Here's the rear shot.